Thought it was about time I resurrected this project. After getting BF2E to v0.9 and then decided I didn't like the way it turned out. After getting 1418 to v0.8P I then decided it was okay but I was having real trouble deciding how to paint/base stuff.
The thing is, I'm an impulse buyer, but also a cheapskate. I'll spend money on a whim, but once I get the stuff I'm very reluctant to commit to any particular painting or basing or do anything much with it really.
My to-do list: next few months
. Try new basecoating and spray-hardcoating for 1/72 miniatures
. Assemble some 15mm miniatures
. Base some 6mm miniatures and spray-hardcoat them to make sure the flock stays put this time
. Work out a basing scheme for 3mm miniatures
. Decide on my multiple basing schemes for 2mm miniatures
Hi, I'm afraid this won't be a terribly eyecatching introduction.
As I've had several thousand views since first uploading my prototype rules about a year ago, perhaps you have already been here. In which case, go straight to the Games and Rules Page, where BF2E version 0.9 is now online!
If you have no idea what BF2E or 2mm or wargaming is, read on...
Wargaming is playing war games (no, really?) with model soldiers. That's about it! Some people do it really casually, others dedicate their lives to the "hobby" (read "obsession"). Personally, I'm somewhere in between.
The model soldiers in question vary in size from several inches tall to several millimetres. Almost all figures come grey-coloured, so you have to paint them. Indeed, there are people who exclusively paint and never game. Some figures come in pieces (e.g. you have to attach heads, arms, weapons etc. to the body), a bit like Airfix kits.
My games are mostly designed for use with the smaller varieties (2mm, 3mm and 6mm), although I do have a sizeable collection of 25mm plastics, which come in boxes of 50, of which I usually paint 1, get bored and buy a new box. I currently have about 400 figures and 10 vehicles in large scale, and some of my rules can be used with such figure scales (but not that many figures at a time. maybe.)
I got into the smaller scales because they cost less, can be played on smaller tables, and you can put together very nice skirmishes easily.
Alternatively, you can spend the same amount, use the same table, and put together an absoultely epic battle!
2mm scale is the smallest commerically avaliable collection of figures. There are model scales for ships and even planes which are smaller, but they do not have infantry or cavalry and so cannot really play land battles.
2mm scale means that an average infantryman model is 2mm high. "WHAT!? HOW DO YOU PAINT THAT!?" I hear you cry. It's not that hard really, let's say you want to paint some Napoleonic British. They are modelled with 10-30 infantrymen cast shoulder-to-shoulder in a block.
Get some black paint and blob it on the bottom half of each infantryman. Get some red paint and blob it on the top half. Finally, put a tiny black dot on the top of the 'head', and a tiny pink dot on the front of the 'head'. If you have the co-ordination and eyesight (which I do) and the patience (which I don't), you can add a white stripe or two across the front of the trooper, to hint at belts and straps. Oh, and, each man has a lump on his back (i.e. a backpack), so pop some brown on that. Hold it up to your eye. Probably looks terrible. Paint a few hundred more. Put them on the table. You are now looking at a mass of red-black uniform with flashes of white and flesh: exactly what a commander from the era would have seen when observing his army from afar.
I personally love to paint medieval. Let's take my method for modelling some 15th Century French Billmen.
Get 4 blocks each of 20 "musketeers". These blocks have backpacks and 'sticks' in their hands (obviously, supposed to be muskets, but we can call them spears, halberds, bills and the like). I glue 2 of these blocks side by side on an MDF base 40x20mm in size. Paint the blocks completely grey. Paint some of the figures (chosen randomly) brown in the chest and/or the legs, and do the same for green and black until the majority have these 'neutral' colours in whole or in part upon their person. Perhaps give one or two men yellow or red legs or chests.
Then, for all the remaining figures (and probably some of the ones you've already 'neutralised', paint blue on the chests - some of them could also have blue legs. Paint some white instead of blue. The overall impression should be one of a rabble which has tried to all wear something blue. Nearly every figure should have something blue on him. Then glue the 2 other blocks on (so you have one in each corner), and repeat.
Paint the banners in the national colour, then paint one corner white/black and then the diagonally opposite corner the same. This gives you a very easy quartered design. Crosses are harder but not impossible - paint the flag white/black first and then almost fill every quarter in the national colour.
You can see the results of this method in the "Pictures" page.
For English, swap blue for red and yellow. For Low Countries, use light green or yellow instead of blue. There aren't too many rules for uniform with Medievals, but some nations (e.g. france) have a "favourite" colour, particularly when fighting abroad. You can do the whole army in uniform if you want, which may not be historical (What Is This Heresy!?) but makes troop identification easier.
I've rambled about painting far too much. On to the games!
Originally designed as an excuse to buy lots of fantasy-themed armies, I developed it into a reasonable realistic historical game, but quickly got bogged down in doing army lists and researching every period possible. Which is most of them.
The game can be played with any historical period in which troops were used en masse at a reasonable close distance (in otherwords, up to the 19th century). Things get a little complex with mixed formations and Pike & Shotte, but the game can happily be played with Medieval, Ancients or Napoleonic.
I also developed a slightly different version for 20th century battles, primarily for the Great War but one day I will finish the WW2 version.
I will finally make a BF2E version 1.0, complete with historical army lists (or at least guides) and those for fantasy, and finish 1418, but that will all take time I currently don't have.
v.0.9 is overly complicated, which is against my original intention to make a game with a short learning time, moderate playing time and huge potential. However, I did manage to stick to my passion for 1-for-1 representation.
So many games have a few figures representing what should be huge masses of troops (the worst offender being Wargames Research Group's DBA which uses 2-5 men to represent up to 2,000). Such games have their advantages - but this - Battle for 2mm Earth - is designed to be a whole different game.